Day 5 : Scourie to Durness - Short Recovery Day - Puncture !!!

Stats:  Distance - 28.1 miles    Ascent- 1738 ft       Ave Speed - 9.8 mph   Moving Time - 2 hrs 51m

Murray, Kim, Carol and I enjoyed a lovely night and breakfast in our B and B.  Tom is quite happy to sleep in the van and Linda/Jillian/Flo and Gwen/Neil in camper vans.   We gathered at the campsite about 9.30am, lovely to have a late start, the sun was shining, wind didn't seem as strong. Things were  looking up !!!!  As we were feeling a bit stiff after yesterday... Jillian/Gwen led us through some stretching exercises.   Oh, the looks we got from the other campers, bums in the air, but wow it helped a lot, thanks girls.   Today was a nice short day, we could handle this.  As we left Scourie I was surprised at how big it was, I had imagined a campsite on a cliff with just a couple of houses but it is a small village with a hotel, garage and Spar.  Again our landlady stated the NC500 route had made a huge difference to trade.   I decided to take it easy today, meander along, enjoy the views, take photos, there was no rush, we would be their by lunchtime.  Immediately we went into steep hill but fortunately it only one of a few we encountered.  Again the scenery is magnificent, mind blowing, stunning, vast glens with steep hills on each side,  hidden lochs round every corner with islands in the middle, so many you lose track.  Around every bend there is a vista  more spectacular, I felt I was drinking it in today and didn't want it to end.  Still the strong wind though, sometimes sunny, sometimes quite cold but very doable.  The road surfaces have been variable - some in great condition but mostly the quieter, single tracks reminding me of the rough roads on the west coast of Arran. We were glad of the roughness when the wind was trying to blow us off course -  gave more grip. Then 'whoosh', we all heard it, Jillian's back tyre had a puncture, this has been a regular occurrence since she bought the bike. No cause could be found but then Jillan noticed her wheel rim tape was crumpled up on the puncture site so we reckoned it was rim pressure causing the trouble.  As a temporary measure Kim placed a puncture repair patch over the offending area, new inner tube, tyre pumped up, good as new.  Our road bikes are holding up well and they have received a lot of punishment -  Strad, my Colnago is going like a dream ( hope I am not tempting fate).  When Linda heard we had been delayed she, Murray and Neil cycled out to meet us. We then made good progress and arrived in Durness and headed straight for Cocoa  Mountain where most enjoyed hot creamy chocolate, I would have been sick !!  All they sell are chocolate related products !!! Again Durness is a busy place, full campsite, beautiful golden beaches but everyone is wrapped up against the elements.   We then parted company, Murray and I in the Bunkhouse, Kim and Carol managing to camp at last and of course the Campervans.  The Bunkhouse is spotless, good wifi ( hence catching up ) but our room is tiny, hardly room to stand next to our bunks. Not grumbling though as we were warned !!! Tonight we dined at Sands Restaurant but they had made a mistake with the booking and were not expecting us, Linda quickly sorted it out. We are always ravenous, constantly eating and drinking, I noticed from my Strava yesterday that I had used over 3,000 calories. Today was good, we are weary but more relaxed, good fun !!

Belles Morning Stretches !!!!

Janice and Jillian at Durness

Day 4: Ullapool to Scourie - The Wild West was not Finished with Us !!!!

Stats:   Distance - 70.2 miles       Ascent - 6699ft       Ave Speed -  9.3 mph    Moving Time - 7hrs 30 min.

We all gathered at Ullapool junction slightly later than usual at 9.00pm.  There was a huge cruise liner in the bay and bagpipes were playing to welcome the visitors ashore.  We had been warned by Murray that it would be colder today with wind from North East which meant a full on headwind.  At first the hills were gradual, slightly steeper than Brodick to Lamlash  but I had a feeling worse was to come as this was the day with the highest total ascent. Gwen's chain was making worrying noises so Carol produced some lube but then Murray arrived with GT85 so all quietened down  The scenery was absolutely stunning,  high mountains on each side, giving way to golden beaches.  We got caught up in the grandeur of it all and kept stopping to take pictures.  As Carol said  " It was breathtakingly beautiful'. Kim had a stabbing pain in her foot but as no cause could be found we reasoned it must be pressure - again Carol came to the rescue with Arnica.  We then christened her "Mary Poppins",  Kim became Ballsy Kim, Gwen was Gutsy Gwen  and I said I had once been nicknamed 'Baby Doll'. Good fun.The constant wind, and occasional shower were exhausting but we felt the weather was slightly better than yesterday.  Suddenly Carol and then Kim were blown straight across the road onto the far verge, very frightening as the road was busy, we took it easy concentrating on holding the road, ready for sudden gusts.  Word came through that Murray and Neil were looking for B and B's in Scourie as the wind was still gale force and once again there were concerns about tents.   Kim, Carol and I all said yes, go ahead and book.   We reached Lochinver and headed to the famous Pie Shop for lunch, wonderful pies and sweets, very busy. By now it was 2.30pm and we were only halfway there, seriously behind schedule.  Still what's another 36 miles for the Belles, but what miles !!!!  Some people from Somerset, who were in a camper van, Kevin and Alan , spoke to us  - said they had been leapfrogging us for the last few days. Always recognised us from Carol's bright yellow tights, they thought we were remarkable to be out in such weather, full of admiration.  Fuelled up and ready to go we set of for the final leg, Jillian joining us.  This was the loop round the coast and we could see from the map the road was narrow and hilly, no buses are allowed. Constant taxing ups and downs, having to pull in to let cars, camper vans and many motorbikes past  - after yesterday's gales it was exhausting.  Murray and Neil had cycled out of Scourie to meet us but  as we were running so late, turned back after 11 miles.   Jillian joined Linda in the Campervan with 16 miles to go, we hoped to arrive by 6.30/7.00pm.  Tom had been shadowing us in his van always on hand to provide  provisions and reassurance. Then the route became seriously challenging, some lovely downhills but oh the uphills were almost vertical.  We had to walk in parts, a thing the Belles never do, getting unclipped without falling off was daunting.  We were becoming extremely exhausted with the constant wind and  hills.  Once we finished the loop and rejoined the main road it was only 11 miles to Scourie but again it was relentless - strong head wind, hills and now fast traffic.  We dribbled into Scourie between 8/8.30pm and eventually managed to locate Murray and Neil who were in the local pub, very concerned about us !!!! My how they jumped when I walked in the door, steam coming out my ears !!! Anyway, they quickly rose to the occasion and took charge of us and our bikes, guiding us to our B and B.   Never was it more welcome. We all agreed it was the hardest day so far, started of ok but just gradually became 'unbelievable '.  Fortunately this was a evening for dining with Linda/ Jillian in Cilla the camper van. So showered and changed we eventually rolled up at 9.00pm to be welcomed by 'Wee Flo" their dog. Flo has been watching over us and putting up with her home being invaded.  Thank you Wee Flo.  Amazing what a few beers and wine plus excellent food and company can do to revive the spirits.  Stories were told of the day, aches and pains discussed.  The girls were absolutely brilliant, we each went into our own wee world and suffered in silence, each dealing and coping with the ride in her own way.   As usual I wouldn't have missed it for the world and it in a strange way, it was funny fun.   ( Tomorrow is only 26 miles, recovery day, bliss )